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Fashion Week dates clash resolved… for now

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The organisers of the New York and London fashion weeks have agreed to move their dates for September 2012 forward by a week in order to avoid a clash between the London and Milan schedules. According to a joint press release, New York Fashion Week (NYFW) will now run from September 6-13th, with London Fashion Week (LFW) following on immediate from September 14-18th. Milan Fashion Week (MFW) was already announced as starting on September 19th.

The move represents a compromise by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the British Fashion Council (BFC). NYFW will now start just a few days after the United States’ Labor Day national holiday, which falls on the first Monday in September, putting increased pressure on designers showing at NYFW. The BFC (which had already been disadvantaged last September by many top models’ late arrival from New York and early departure to Milan to attend pre-casting for the Gucci show) also faced a challenge in rescheduling, due to the fact that the main LFW venue, Somerset House, is set to become “Casa Brasil” during this year’s Olympic Games. With the Paralympics closing ceremony occurring on September 9th, it was only possible to schedule a September 14th start for LFW with the cooperation of the Brazilian Olympic Committee.

In 2008, the organisers of the four major fashion weeks agreed a coordinated schedule, with NYFW starting on the second Thursday in September, and the London, Milan and Paris events following on, sequentially. However, last year, the MFW organisers, Camera Nationale della Moda (CNdM) announced dates for September 2012 which would clash with both New York and London, claiming that the 2008 agreement was only valid for three years. Chambre Syndicale followed the Italians by announcing that Paris Fashion Week would start straight after MFW finished.

There is, as yet, no word on what CNdM will do for 2013 but their thinking is likely to be influenced by the backlash they experienced when they announced this year’s dates – the chairman of Condé Nast went so far as to write to the Italians to warn them that the editors of Vogue (including Anna Wintour and Alexandra Shulman) would skip Milan’s shows if they clashed with New York and London. Now that the CFDA and British Fashion Council have gone to extra mile to avoid a clash this year, many would consider continued intransigence on the part of the Italians to be churlish. The Parisians, too, are likely to play a significant role, as the two largest fashion conglomerates – LVMH and PPR – are French.

Written by Jack

January 19th, 2012 at 11:03 am

Tze Goh A/W’11

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Friday 18th February – This season, Central Saint Martin’s graduate Tze Goh was selected as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch and presented his A/W’11 collection on the VFS catwalk.

Written by Myles

February 18th, 2011 at 10:07 pm

Irwin & Jordan A/W 2011

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Following on from winning an Elle LaunchPad award last season, Zoe Jordan launched the Irwin & Jordan A/W 2011 collection with a full show, attended by, amongst others, her father Eddie, former Marks & Spencer chairman Sir Stuart Rose and singer Natalie Imbruglia. See below for full coverage of the show.

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Written by Jack

February 18th, 2011 at 9:32 pm

Zoe Jordan S/S 2011

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Sunday 19th September – Last season, we found Zoe Jordan exhibiting her Irwin & Jordan label in the designer showrooms but this time around, things have moved on. After waiting our turn in a queue of buyers and journalists we finally got a chance to ask  her what’s been happening over the past few months.

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Written by Myles

September 28th, 2010 at 3:40 pm

Backstage at Issa London’s LFW catwalk show

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We often get asked what it’s like backstage at a major catwalk show and whether it’s really as chaotic as it’s always made out to be. Well, we can confirm that it’s actually more chaotic than you can imagine – an army of hair and make-up artists scramble to get the models ready for the catwalk while last-minute alternations are made to the clothes, celebrities hobnob with the designer and a platoon of photographers circulate, snapping everything.

See below for more photos from backstage during Issa London’s preparations for their catwalk show at London Fashion Week.

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Written by Jack

September 28th, 2010 at 2:16 pm

On|Off Exhibition

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Photos from the On|Off exhibition at Victoria House during London Fashion Week: House of Flora, Aase Hopstock, Sevda Mutlu, Tour de Force and Lee Lapthorne.

Written by Jack

September 28th, 2010 at 12:51 pm

Yunus & Eliza

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Sunday 19th September – Also on the Elle Talent LaunchPad were Yunus & Eliza, with an intriguing collection of jewellery and wearable sculpture. We asked Yunus about their background.

“We’re pretty new to it all, been going for about 18 months now,” he told us. “This is our first show. It’s been part-time for a long time and, just recently, full-time.

“We both come from a fine artist’s background so we were both involved in sculpture. I was a fine artist, doing painting, mainly, and illustration, and we kind of met by accident, really. I did an apprenticeship at Foundry, doing large bronze sculpture and restoration and Eliza came in with a small horse sculpture that she wanted cast in bronze. She didn’t know how expensive it was going to be so she was, like ‘Err, how about I get involved in the process and maybe cut the price a bit.’ I was happy to teach her and we started playing around with some ideas.

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Written by Myles

September 28th, 2010 at 11:31 am

Laura Theiss

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Sunday 19th September – We first saw Laura Theiss at Alternative Fashion Week back in April. At London Fashion Week, she was exhibiting at the On|Off exhibition.

Laura was born and grew up in Lithuania. “I’ve been knitting since I was five years old. I studied business and that helps a lot in fashion. Then I studied Fashion Design at St Martins. I graduated in 2009.”

We asked her how this, her second collection differed from the one she showed at AFW. “This collection is a bit more sellable. I still try to keep my signature ethnic style but this time, I wanted to be more futuristic so I’ve used metallic, shiny elements. My inspiration comes from Chinese legends about aliens so it’s a combination of ethnic and futuristic.

“We designers, we’re like journalists – we take a story, we research and translate it to our collection so it’s like the clothes are telling the story. Crocheted ribbons and tassels but metallic, 80% cotton and the rest is metallic. Most of it is hand-knit, with only the finer pieces are factory-made to my patterns.”

We asked what the reaction has been to the new collection. “Surprisingly amazing. As a designer, you never know, you get paranoid shortly before the show about what people are going to say, what the press are going to say but I’m really happy. There’s a been a really good reaction. People like to see traditional knitwear made in new ways.”

Laura’s collection is targeted at 18-25 year old girls and is priced in the £300-700 range. It’s currently sold at Beyond the Valley in London and Debut in New York, and you can see the full collection at lauratheiss.com

Written by Myles

September 28th, 2010 at 11:05 am

Eudon Choi

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Sunday 19th September – Eudon Choi is hot property this season, having won the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award and been chosen for the Elle Talent LaunchPad. We asked him how he’d got here.

“I was a menswear designer initially, working at a very high-end design company in Korea. I decided to come to London purely because there are two very good Masters courses here, at the Royal College of Art and Central St. Martins. I got accepted to the Royal College of Art so that’s where I studied. I then worked as a senior designer at All Saints and Twenty8Twelve, and then I thought ‘I’ll just do my own thing’. So, I started my label and this is my third season. Last season I got chosen for Ones to Watch by Vauxhall Fashion Scout and I secured six very good stockists, and then I won these two awards, which is fantastic!”

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Written by Myles

September 28th, 2010 at 10:22 am

Catching up with Charlotte Taylor

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Sunday 19th September – Last time we spoke to Charlotte, she was planning a trip to Costa Rica so we asked her how it went.

“It got cancelled because of the volcanic ash disruption,” she told us. “So I went to Ibiza instead. But I’m still planning to go to Costa Rica in November.”

However, it seems that she’s had plenty to keep her busy since launching her label at VFS back in February. Her debut collection is being stocked by two online retailers. “One of them was through VFS – that was Young British Designers – and the other one is Coggles,” Charlotte told us. “It was really nice to start off with a couple and just find my feet, deal with the production, get all that sorted. I spent a lot of time going around to different factories. It was really important to me that I got on with the people. Everything’s getting made in East London in a little family-run factory. It’s quite important to me [to manufacture locally] because my stuff’s quite strongly associated with bring really British. It wouldn’t be as good if I went and got it made somewhere else at this stage. Also, it’s good to be able to monitor it – if something goes wrong, I don’t have to fly to Istanbul to change it.”

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Written by Myles

September 27th, 2010 at 5:40 pm